Historical Hats, Costumes & Accessories

Made by Nobility, for Nobility

The Jewelled or Passement Coif C.1450 - 1530

Jewelled Coif in Velvet and Brocade, with Jewels and Pearls The Coif started off as a close fitting simple cap that was worn by men, women and children in the 13th Century. By the mid 15th Century the Jewelled Coif was worn extensively by the English, French, Spanish, Italian and Flemish Ladies.

It consisted of a close fitting Cap of some rich material, criss-crossed mostly, with Gold and Jewels with Pearls or drop ornaments, frequently used to decorate along its edge to frame the face. These jewelled edges were called "Passement."

The Jewelled Coif claims a kinship with network caps worn in Italy during this period. The Italians designed many fine examples of these fine Jewelled or Passement Coif´s.

One such Jewelled Coif can be seen on a beautiful image of Princess Anne from "Triptyque du Maitre du Moulins" pictured below.

Another chic style showing Jewelled Coif can be seen in a M.S. It is of a Lady representing "England." She is wearing a close fitted Coif of Purple Silk, with a heavily embroidered edge, which is cut pointed on either side of the chin with a Bonnet of Scarlet Silk perched on her head.

The Jewelled Coif was never worn on its own, always with some other head ornament like a Black Velvet Band, a Bonnet or Coronet.

Jewelled Coif in Velvet and Brocade, with Jewels and Pearls Original Headdress image taken from the 'Triptyque du Maitre de Moulins' Line drawing of Princess Anne wearing her Jewelled Coif, from an image in a book at Bristol University

 

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