The Jewelled or Passement Coif C.1450 - 1530
The Coif started off as a close fitting simple cap that was worn by men,
women and children in the 13th Century. By the mid 15th Century the
Jewelled Coif was worn extensively by
the English, French, Spanish, Italian and Flemish Ladies.
It consisted of a close fitting Cap of some rich material, criss-crossed
mostly, with Gold and Jewels with Pearls or drop ornaments, frequently
used to decorate along its edge to frame the face. These jewelled edges
were called "Passement."
The Jewelled Coif claims a kinship with
network caps worn in Italy during this period.
The Italians designed many fine examples of these fine
Jewelled or Passement Coif´s.
One such Jewelled Coif can be seen on a
beautiful image of Princess Anne from "Triptyque du Maitre du Moulins"
Another chic style showing Jewelled Coif
can be seen in a M.S. It is of a Lady representing "England." She is
wearing a close fitted Coif of Purple Silk, with a heavily embroidered
edge, which is cut pointed on either side of the chin with a Bonnet
of Scarlet Silk perched on her head.
The Jewelled Coif was never worn on its
own, always with some other head ornament like a Black Velvet Band,
a Bonnet or Coronet.
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